Author: krisedler

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June Gardening To-Do List for USDA Zones 3-8

June gardening to-do list

June Gardening To-Do List

What should I be doing on my property in the month of June if I live in USDA Zones 3-8? Have you ever wondered what other organic regenerative gardeners are doing right now in their yards or on their properties?   (Looking for USDA Zones 9-11, click here)  Well, here’s a little list to give you a jump-start for what you be doing for your June Gardening To-Do List.

In the Garden

  • Plant more:  Kale, lettuce, cucumbers, summer/winter squash  Staggering your plantings will help diversify harvest times and ensure a healthier crop. If you have extra space, plug in some more annual flower seeds like sunflower, cosmos, zinnia, or nasturtium. 
  • To Plant:  Corn, cucumbers, beans, squash, pumpkins
  • Tomatoes: Plant another round of them to diversify harvest throughout the season.  In the midwest, where we often have hard clay soil, you can actually increase your root systems for greater water intake by following these easy steps.  First, pinch off the bottom layers of leaves, only leaving 2 – 3 sets on the top of the seedling.  Second, plant the seedling all the way up to the top of the plant leaving only the remaining leaves above the ground.  Because tomatoes will grow roots from the hairs on the stem, the entire stem under the soil will produce roots.  This should only be done with seedlings up to 6-8″ tall.  Lastly, be sure to give it a good watering from your rain barrel when you finish.
  • Plant extra bean seedlings everywhere you can.  Yes, everywhere you can.  The bush beans are excellent right off the plant (raw), can be cooked, and some can be dried.  The best part, in my humble opinion, is that the green beans are nitrogen fixers and help repair the soil.
Plant nasturtiums

TIP

Plant nasturtiums around the garden and in the food forest. They are a two-fold insectary plant. First, they will attract the good insect and pollinators, especially the braconid wasps (which defend against the bad guys). Secondly, they are an insect trap for aphids, so if you see your nasturtiums covered…. consider them a sacrificial crop to protect your veggies.

In the Greenhouse

  • Put up shade cloth:  We are essentially finished with the “Greenhouse” season, but if you have a shade cloth, you can actually open up all the windows now and put the shade cloth over the top. This will allow you to start micro-greens and other later season veggie starts. If using a shade cloth, you can also use the opened greenhouse for your indoor tropical plants to give them a season outdoors. Just be sure to pay attention to your watering!
  • Clean and sterilize the plastic pots used this winter / spring
  • Set mouse traps to control critters
  • Hang fly traps to control aphids, flies, and other pests
  • Fertilizing:  It’s crucial to give your gardens and food forest what they need! Focus on nitrogen this month. Consider blood meal applications in both the veggie garden and food forest.  If you can’t find that… try bonemeal instead.  It’s often best to fertilize right before a rain in order to water it in nicely.

In the Food Forest

  • Ground Cherry seedlings can go into the ground.  Plant them around the base of trees to provide shade for the root systems, but allow enough light to get through to produce a harvest.  These will often self-seed, so plant in an area where you are ok with them spreading.  However, the taste of these berries is incredible, you will not regret planting them.
  • Herbs around fruit trees:  Woody and smelly herbs are great at two things:  keeping pests away (deer and bad bugs) and attracting native bees for pollination.  Wait, I lied… three things.  They are also a great ground cover under the young fruit trees.  Plant yarrow, bronze fennel, dill, oregano, thyme, chives, or garlic chives in clusters around the base of each fruit tree.  Let them spread and grow wild.
  • Harvest elderberry flowers:  If you are making elderflower tinctures, teas, or wine – now is your time to harvest!  Make the good stuff when flowers are at their peak.
  • Apply late spring foliar spray, if you have not done so already.
June gardening to-do list. June garden to-do list

Enjoy your spring pollinating bulbs that you planted this winter.

If you forgot… here’s an article of when you could plant this this coming winter.

In the Shed

  • Tool check:  Now that your tools are up and running, give them a check over before the summer months hit. 1 – Check oil levels. 2 – Check air filters. 3 – Add a bit of Seafoam to the gas to help clean things out a bit.
  • Set mouse traps and keep any animal feed sealed and contained.
  • Make a tool cleaning bucket: Fill bucket with sharp play sand. Add oil motor oil, cheep cooking oils, etc until the sand is “damp”. Stab shovels, hoes, pitch forks in and out a few times to clean off dirt and give the metal a nice oiling to keep them from rusting after each use. Garden spades and trowels can be kept in the sand bucket.  There is a video tutorial for this in Patreon.

Poultry and Livestock

  • Poultry:  Many folks who bought the spring chickens are now free ranging their birds. They are not laying yet, so do NOT give calcium.  Stay on a great grower feed until the first eggs arrive.  My preference is a high protein feed with lots of seed varieties.   Personally, prefer to mix and ferment my own feed. Here’s my recipe.
  • Quail:  It’s starting to get hot, to be sure to keep their water filled at all times.  It helps (once a week) to add a tsp of apple cider vinegar to their waterer.  It will keep them healthy and active.  As you weed the garden, you can also give them an occasional worm for additional protein in their diet.  Their cooing and songs will be as nice of a reward as the healthy eggs they will produce.
  • Deworming: Use 1 tablespoon of Basic H in a 5 gallon waterer (1tsp per gal) for chickens. Add 1.5 cups to a 100gal waterer basin for cattle and horses. Available in bulk (much cheeper for farm use) This should be their only water source for two days.
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In the Pasture

  • Plant last warm season crops:  Alfalfa, clover mix, buckwheat, Sunn Hemp
  • Plant final pasture edge (ecotone) species: Sunflower, buckwheat, comfrey, millet, milo, sorghum 

Around the House

  • Keep South and West facing shades closed during the day time in order to block out the hot sun.
  • Open up the windows on cooler nights to help air out the house and let in fresh air.
  • Replace your AC air filters and clean out the vents with a shop vac.
  • Power wash cement, walkways, sides of house, shutters, wood decks, and outdoor furniture.
  • Clean outdoor windows and doors (I use Basic H for this)
  • Apply UV protectant to your recreational vehicles (boats, car interiors, RV’s, decals, etc.

In the Perennial Flower Beds

  • Transplanting:  It’s the chance to move perennials for a few months.  Once the Midwest summers get hot, it’s really a challenge to transplant your perennials without over stressing them too much.  Now is a GREAT time to transplant coneflowers, yarrow, black-eyed Susans, penstemons, etc.
  • Share plants that you are dividing and trade with friends.
  • Cut back mums:  Yeah, go to town. Cut them back quite a bit.  Leave only about 1/3 of the plant.  You do NOT want this to develop buds yet, so if you see them forming again – give it a hair cut.

Ideas for Kiddos and Family Activities

  • Spring Foraging: This month you can look for wild blueberries, haskap, honeyberry, morels, chicken of the woods, and even some rosehips starting! When brining kiddoes into nature, always stress, “Do NOT put anything in your mouth unless you ask an adult first.”
  • Make Walking Sticks: Older kids can carve the bark off sticks to make them smooth, but younger kids can paint with acrylic paints. Be sure to clear coat spray them when finished so the paint doesn’t come off later.  Put the walking sticks on the porch so they are on-hand for every adventure.
  • Wild Bird Feeding
    • Set out orange halves and grape jelly for the arriving orioles
    • Put hummingbird feeders out on April 15th (never use the kind with red dye), and be sure to change the water in them every week.
    • Hang a new birdhouse for spring nesting season
    • Add white millet to feeders to attract indigo buntings (bright blue birds)
  • Local Farm Visit: Many local farms offer free tours, kids activities, etc. Look up a local farm to visit in your area and give your kiddos exposure to the animals, crops, and fruit trees.

Keep Learning and Growing!

During these hot summer days, it’s also a great time to keep learning and growing. Consider finding a new Podcast or even join us on Patreon for lots of on-going classes, PDF files, and other documents to help you grow on the go. We are also offering a FREE 7-day trial on Patreon, so you can see if the content there is a good fit for you and your learning style. 

Patreon includes homestead mentorship with Kris, LIVE chat and help, and a variety of access to our entire resource library.

 

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How to Plant a Fruit Tree or Berry Bush

Easy Instructions for Successful Fruit Tree Planting

how to plant a fruit tree
  1. Prep the site:  Make sure utilities have been clearly marked by calling 8-1-1 before you dig.
  2. Gather materials:  You will need cardboard or contractor paper for weed suppression, compost, wood chip mulch, shovel, water.
  3. Digging the hole – Remove the plant carefully from the pot and set it next to the hole.  When digging, the initial hole should be nearly twice as big as the root ball itself.  Put most of the dirt you are removing in a wheelbarrow or the pot it came in.  You will be filling the hole back up with the native dirt.
    • Placing the plant – Set the root ball in the hole.  The top of the root ball should be 2-3” higher than the soil line.
      • Do NOT let the root ball go lower than the soil level. Remember, the plant will settle into the hole.  Backfill the hole with the native soil. 
      • Do NOT put fertilizer or compost into the hole.  Doing so will cause the roots of the plant to want to stay inside the hole instead of venturing out and establishing a wider root system.  Amendments should always be applied to the top of the soil.
  4. Weed suppression barrier – Use contractor paper or cardboard around the tree (whether in a circle or in a row) to kill the grass and suppress weeds.  If you are using cardboard, be sure to remove any staples or tape.   This area should be several feet on each side of the tree in order to protect the roots and help decomposition.
  5. Compost – Apply a 1” layer of compost to the top of the soil.  Keep all top dressing away from the trunk / stem of the plant.  The width of the ring should be twice the width of the canopy of the plant.
    • Soft stem plants:  Use a compost that is plant and bacteria based.
    • Hard stemmed bushes / trees:  Use a mushroom or fungal based compost when possible.
  6. Mulch – Use a good mulch or wood chips as your top dressing (4-5” deep).
    • Wood chips:  Better for woody stemmed and /or mature plants.  The benefit is that it takes longer to break down and provides a cleaner look.  Drawback is that for annual vegetables it can tie up nitrogen when it initially breaks down. 
    • Straw or grass clippings:  Better for annual flowers and annual vegetables.  Benefit is that it breaks down faster and helps heal the soil quickly.  Drawback is that is needs to be reapplied multiple times a year.
    • NOTE:  You can layer your mulch (leaves, grass clippings, straw, and wood chips on top).  Do not mulch deeper than 6” at a time.
  7. Watering – For your first watering, consider using a probiotic spray (https://www.scdprobiotics.com/products/scd-bio-ag-soil-amendment?sca_ref=1290056.jX6cET8IFB).
    • After the initial watering, use the finger / soil test to determine when the plant needs to be watered.  In general, most plants like to dry out between watering.
      • Finger test:  Put your finger into the soil at the base of the tree down to the biggest knuckle.  If the soil is moist, do not water.  If it is dry, then consider watering.
    • Plants like to be watered less frequently with a deeper watering.  Do not water the trunk of the tree, always water about 12” from the trunk (or at the drip line of the canopy).  Watering the trunk can cause root rot.  If you are using drip irrigation, a sprinkler, or bubbler, make sure they are not spraying the wood or branches of the tree.
    • After the first year, with annual mulch application, you should rarely need to water.  Once established, let the tree roots do their job and only water during drought times or when the trees look overly stressed.

REMINDER:  Fertilization in subtropic and tropical climates is best done in February, June, and September on fruit trees and berry bushes.  In cooler climates, it should be done in March / April (just before flowers emerge) and again in June just before fruit set. After the first year, fertilization is best applied as a quality compost or manure.  Chemical fertilizers are unnecessary and do not help the soil in the long run.

For additional benefit you can also apply a compost tea or late spring foliar spray during the same months listed above

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How to Use Wood Ash from the Campfire | Kris Edler

wood ashes in the garden

Growing up, I have countless memories of cooking around the campfire.  My brother and I would spend hours at a time burning brush, cooking our dinners, and having s’mores after dark.  Even as a young adult, I would light a campfire in my Kansas City yard and see how many days I could keep it going, and how many meals I could cook over it during that time.  As a little known fact, I still have the same stones around my campfire that I used as a kid… I have brought them with me everywhere over the years.  Many of those rocks were from “rock hounding” adventures with my Aunt Barb and Uncle Del.

However, every so often, it’s time to clean out the fire pit and find a creative use for the ashes produced.  In permaculture, one of the keys learned from my PDC leader, Geoff Lawton, is that “the problem is often the solution.”  So, I asked myself… I could I use wood ash from the campfire creatively?  How could I give those nutrients back to my environment in a useful way?

img_7678When looking around a permaculture property, there are many uses for wood ash which can be a great source of nutrients for your soil.   However, it’s important to know that with wood ash, your kindergarten teacher was right in saying, “A little dab will do ya.”  Use only a small amount and increase after a few weeks to make sure your soil pH says in the safe zone.  The reason for this is that ashes are extremely alkaline on the pH scale.

Wood Ash is Highly Alkaline

pH for vegetables
best pH for vegetable garden

Because wood ash is a high pH (often 9-13), we have to carefully consider what to do with ashes in our garden.  Optimal soils for most vegetable gardens have a pH of 6.0-7.2, so adding something like wood ashes can have a drastic effect on pH and do so very quickly.  However, using it appropriately can really help nature walk out it’s course of keeping your soil in balance.

Wood ashes are naturally occurring in nature and are a great way for nature to “reset” an environment.  For example, in the Great Plains, the Kiowa Nations would often do controlled burns in order to reset and manage the land.  In California, as devastating as wild fires can be to homes, it’s actually natures way of resetting the damaged landscape and ridding it of invasive annuals that we have brought to the area.  In upstate Washington, the fires clear out understory and add nutrients back to the soil to feed the remaining old growth forests.  This being said, though fire can be a source of destruction, it’s also a source of life in certain circumstances.

Nutrients in Wood Ash

Potassium and potash are two of the prime nutrients are available from wood ash.  The burning process makes them readily available for absorption by your plants.  In fact, potash is so soluble that if it gets wet between the burning process and the time you spread it on your plants, much of the nutrient value will have leeched into the nearby soil.

How to Use Wood Ash in the Garden

There are countless ways to use wood ashes in your garden and around your property, but understanding the soil make-up of your area is the first step before application.  You can easily find out the average pH by purchasing a test kit from a  local garden center.  You can buy kits to test it instantly (lower accuracy) or purchase a kit online that will test it overnight to get a better reading.  Either way, once you know your starting point, you can adjust your pH using organic compounds, like wood ash, to get into the optimal range.  Remember, start by adding only a small amount and give the soil a few weeks to adjust before adding more.  It’s also important to note that various parts of the property could have very different pH readings.

So, now let’s get to it:  How to use wood ashes from the campfire…

1.  Use it in the compost pile

This is especially useful if you are composting a lot of fruit (i.e. citrus) waste, because fruit (being acidic) can really lower the pH of your pile, making it a wet / slimy mess.  You can bring it back into balance by sprinkling a shovel full of ashes over the top.  Always make sure your ashes are completely cool before using.

pH for trees and bushes
pH for trees and bushes

2.  Sprinkle them around berry bushes and fruit trees which prefer alkaline soil or extra potassium.

I generally use them first around apple trees, currants, gooseberries, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries, etc.  They will enjoy the extra sprinkle a few times a year, especially in the early spring or late fall.  Do NOT use around blueberries, pineapple, grapes, olive, or jaboticaba – these all prefer acidic soil.

3.  Sprinkle on plants to deter pests

This application will only require a small amount of ashes to create a fine dusting.  If you do not have ducks to control snails and slugs, then wood ashes can be a great deterrent.  Carrots and turnips can also be susceptible to the flies and larvae, which can be deterred by the ashes as well.

4.  Light use in the vegetable garden

Often root crops like carrots, turnips, and beets will appreciate a sprinkle of ashes in the springtime worked into the soil.  Just a light dusting is more than enough.  I often use my wood ashes a few weeks before planting and then let it rain a few times before planting seeds.  Other plants that love the extra potash are beans, peas, and legumes.  Just remember, when using ashes in the garden, always test your soil first, so you stay in the optimal zone (6.0-7.2 pH) for growing veggies.

5.  Use them your lawn instead of lime

Wood ashes are a great substitute for adding lime to your lawn.  The easiest way to spread the ashes is to do so just before a good rain, so it soaks into the ground quickly.  This helps with the solubility and also prevents the dust from being tracked indoors or getting on your shoes.  I often use my grass seed spreader and put it on the lowest setting and broadcast the ashes that way.  Doing it by hand or with a shovel can often create piles in the grass which will over alkalize an area.   Because the CCE (Calcium carbonate equivalent) is different between lime and wood ash, you will need about 2x the amount of wood ash (compared to lime) to see the same effects on alkalization in the yard / garden.  Reference here.

6.  Indoors to control odors or absorb moisture

Keeping a small bowl of wood ashes in a closet or cabinet will not only absorb odors, but it will also help absorb moisture and control mold.  Making a bowl with wood ash is great for keeping boats and campers fresh as well.

7.  Dust baths for poultry and fowl

One of the WORST homesteading tips I have ever seen is to use Diatomaceous Earth in it’s DRY form with animals.  These microscopic crustaceans are like mini razor blades that will do permanent damage to the lungs of your animals.   So instead of using DE… consider adding wood ashes to your chickens dust-bath.  The alkaline ashes will kill the dust mites, ticks, and fleas, etc and you don’t have to worry about the respiratory health of the animals.  Not to mention, ashes will also help control odors!

8.  Add to ponds and lakes to help control algae blooms

To control an algae bloom, add about 1-2 tablespoons of ashes per 1000 gallons of water.  The ashes will not “kill” the algae, but it will slow it down and make it more manageable.   In lakes and larger rivers, it’s generally a best practice to NOT add directly to the water, but rather farther up the system, so the ash doesn’t clog the gills of aquatic life.   Reference here.

9.  Cleaning… yes… cleaning!

Wood ash can really help polish up brass and metal.  Making a paste and scrubbing down your silver might sound counter-productive – but trust me on this one!  You can also use wood ash in the garage and workshop as a way to clean up oil, gas, or chemical spills.

Sooooooo….

Now that you have a few good uses for those ashes, go outside, make a campfire and have a s’more (or three).  Permaculture is a judgement free zone… so let’s just promise to not star counting marshmallows.  Just make sure the ashes are cool before spreading.

Remember, the problem is often the solution.  Happy gardening.

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How to Keep Chickens Warm in the Winter | by Kris Edler

frozen eggs

How to Keep Chickens Warm in the Winter
How to Keep Chickens Warm in the Winter

If you live in colder climates, it can be challenging to keep chickens warm and insulated in the winter.  The fact is, learning how to keep chickens warm in the winter is NOT the same as how we would keep ourselves warm.  Heat lamps, space heaters, and candles are not a good idea in a dry chicken coop full of hay, straw, and feathers.  And yes, that even includes bitter cold location – heaters in a coop are a terrible idea and flat out dangerous.

For some reason though, many people try to heat nature the same way we would our house, however we forget that these birds have survived for thousands of years without electric heat lamps.

Here are 5 simple ways to keep your chickens warm during the cold wintery days:

1 – Feed extra calories and protein

Keep feeding the chickens their regular food, but add a little cracked or crimped corn to their diet on the colder days.  If you know the night is going to be extra cold, feed the cracked corn later in the afternoon, so they can digest it a little before roosting that evening.  This will give them the extra calories needed to produce body heat in the coop.  Don’t overdo the corn, just like with everything else, you can easily get too much of a good thing.

2 – Allow proper air flow, while minimizing drafts

As a general rule, do not have any vents open in the winter that are within 18″ of your roosting areas.  This will allow the birds to comfortably roost together and share their body heat.  Maintain good airflow in the lower levels of the coop though, because you do not want the air to get stagnant.  Remember, do not create an air tight coop.  If you are using the deep bedding method in the winter, maintaining proper airflow will also keep out the smell and keep things dry.  When I lived in Kansas City for 15 years, I would open extra (larger) vents in the summer to keep the coop cool, but cover them with cardboard in the winter to insulate the coop.  However, it’s important to always have good airflow.

3 – Feed a little extra fat

Around the holidays we all like to have a little comfort food to help us cozy up in the winter months.  Your chicken are the same way.  Here are a few easy comfort foods for your girls.

  • Black Oil Sunflower Seeds (great protein, healthy fats, etc.)
  • Suet Cakes (use ones with >6% protein)
  • Meal Worms (great protein source and especially helpful just after molting season)
  • Left Over Spaghetti (trust me, this occasional treat is hilarious to watch)
  • Left Over Meat / Fish (any cooked meats that you have for dinner are generally ok for the birds)

NOTE:  Do NOT use chicken sweaters.  These are a novelty and are horrible for the birds.  They damage feathers and prevent the birds from “fluffing”, which creates warm air pockets in their coats.

4 – Use extra bedding

Extra straw or wood shavings in the coop provide insulation, reduce smells, and absorb excess moisture.  If you are in doubt, add another sleeve of straw just in case.  Not only does this provide insulation, but it helps chickens have something fresh to scratch through, which prevents winter boredom.

5 – Keep water and food fresh

Using a heater in your coop is always a bad idea, unless you want fried chicken.  Just suck it up and change their water 2x a day.  Using warm water and keeping it fresh helps keep the birds hydrated and warm.  I typically use two waterers and bring one inside to thaw while leaving the other one out until it is frozen. Then all I have to do is switch them out during the day.  Adding a weekly tablespoon of apple cider vinegar and honey in the winter can also help boost their immune system.  Always keep the water out of the coop when possible, though.  The spilled water will create moisture in the coop, increasing the risk of frost bite.  Food should always be kept dry, so either feed inside the coop or create a “lean-to” outside of the coop to keep the snow and rain out of the food container.

So there you go, a few easy tips to keep those birds warm in the cold winter months.  If this was helpful to you, be sure to like the article and share it on your favorite social media outlet.  Keep warm and drink some extra coffee!

Short Video:  chickens in cold

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What To Do Before an Ice Storm

how to prepare for an ice storm

If you live in a cold climate region, you have probably been faced with the occasional freak out on social media regarding ice storms.  In many areas, the mention of an ice storm is cause for grocery stores and gas stations to look as though we are on the brink of the apocalypse.  Years ago, people knew how to handle themselves without electricity, water, or gas, but modern families are often completely in the dark when it comes to this.  So, if you are wondering what to do before an ice storm, this is the starter article for you.

What to Do Before an Ice Storm
Preparing for winter storms in the Midwest

Before progressing, remember, an ice storm is not the end of the world, you are not going to freeze to death, and social media will carry on without you for a day or two.  Before taking any of these steps, it is important to remember that more often than not, the weather service will blow storm possibilities to mammoth proportions.  Just remember, if they did not, the backlash for people not being warned could be devastating.  So, don’t freak out – just be wise.  Take a few practical steps beforehand and you and your family can enjoy the ice in peace and warmth.

Here are some key items to do the day or two before an ice event.

1 – Make sure you have kerosene / heaters ready in case the power goes out. Test them before using and NEVER use while sleeping. They give of toxic fumes, so should always be used with an open window or ventilation.  If you don’t have these, make sure to connect with a neighbor with a fireplace .  You can offer to help chop wood or provide soup in exchange.  
2 – Have water stored and ready.   Use empty bottles, pots, pans, and even the bathtub to store water.
3 – Wash clothes and dishes immediately, in the event you loose power.   In Kansas City we have lost power for over a week and having clean underwear sure helps make things brighter (and less stinky).
4 – Open cabinets of sinks / drains / pipes on outer walls.  Providing proper air flow can help prevent pipes from freezing.
5 – Precook a meal or two. Plan your “no power menus”.  Do not let anyone open or close your refrigerator – under any circumstance.  Store food in coolers in the garage for easy access.  The more you open the freezer and refrigerator doors (even a few times) will let out the cold, causing your food to spoil.
6 – Make sure you have a full propane tank of gas for your outdoor grill.  Meals that can be cooked on the stovetop can often be cooked on the grill.  Use cast iron pans on your grill.
7 – Buy some cheep candles at the Dollar store.  You can use these for making homemade heaters, light, and to simply brighten the house on these ice days.
8 – Pre-salt your outdoor steps to prevent ice buildup. Leave a granola bar for the mail man too .
9 – Make sure pets, animals, chickens have food / water and are protected. Add extra straw and bedding, and feed cracked corn to increase body heat.  Learn how to keep chickens warm in the winter here.
10 – Close shades and blinds to prevent drafts indoors.  It may be beautiful to let the sunshine in, but remember, most houses (even with quality windows) are drafty.  Pulling the blinds will help keep the heat in.  With this in mind, limit or restrict going outside, but if you do, be sure to open / close the door quickly.
11 – Charge electronic devices and be prepared to turn off all power strips in the event of a brown out. Intermittent surges can damage appliances.
12 – Check on your neighbors, especially those who are elderly or single.  Generally speaking, we should be checking in on our neighbors anyway, but during a snow storm, doing so once a day is a common human courtesy.

Additional Tips on What to Do Before an Ice Storm

What to Do Before an Ice Storm
Are you ready for an ice storm?

Once you have the basic covered, here are a few extra tips for you to prepare a little more and make things a tad more exciting.

  • Find old board games to play and books that you have not read in a while.  Organize family game and reading time – snuggle!
  • If you have a generator, test it out and be sure to hook it up properly.  Youtube this or have a professional show you, because you can fry your home electrical panel if you do it improperly.
  • Fill up your bird feeders before hand and keep warm water in the bird bath.   Watching birds out the window can provide great family entertainment during snow and ice storms.
  • If you are on a prescription medication, get refills before the storm arrives.
  • Brainstorm a list of activities and old games you played as a child: charades, win / lose or draw, coloring books, indoor hide and seek, fort building, etc.
  • Make some Mulled Honey Mead and curl up under a blanket.  FREE RECIPE HERE
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What to Plant Under a Walnut Tree

Black Walnut Tree Guild for Kansas City

One of the most challenging trees to grow under in much of the US is the walnut tree.  The black walnut tree produces a substance called juglone, which prevents many species from growing under the tree canopy.  If you have one in your yard, you may have noticed that grass is nearly impossible to grow under it.  After living in the Midwest for 15 years, I am well acquainted with this struggle, but also have a few keys on how to be productive in the midst of the challenges of juglone.   The highest concentrations are in the shell and hull of the nuts, and the highest concentration in the soil is often found around 15-20 feet from the tree.  The toxins can be found nearly 80 feet from the center of the tree on older species.  Because of this substance, it is important to not only identify what can grow around the tree, but also what will create a beneficial, symbiotic relationship with the tree to improve the system.   Which is why we have created this list of what to plant under a walnut tree.

Adaptations of this guild can be used in other regions as well with species that are slightly more suitable for your area.

Permaculture Meets Fitness!?

This particular walnut guild has been designed specifically to benefit the local ecosystem, but with the purpose in mind of serving those who are into a fitness based lifestyle.  This guild was originally installed at a K-12 school as a way to help benefit their gym class and sports programs.  These plants have high density nutrients and multiple levels of application for fitness recovery and active lifestyles.

Just imagine, if you can tailor a garden to compliment a fitness center – what other possibilities are out there!  Consider a women’s garden with plants like yarrow (helps with pain) or black cohash (hormonal balancing).  Imagine companion planting a garden in front of a restaurant to highlight their style of food, exploring planting guilds near a children’s recess area, for a bird sanctuary, a learning garden for kids to capture insects, etc.  The possibilities are endless.

Black Walnut Tree Planting Guild for Kansas City
Black Walnut Tree Planting Guild for Kansas City

What to Plant Under a Walnut Tree

Walnut Tree:  This is the centerpiece and canopy layer of the system.  Generally with a walnut species, we don’t plant anything under the canopy itself, but you could add some spring bulbs like daffodils, crocus, or spring violets.  Under a deep canopy, we recommend adding compost, chopped, leaves and/or grass clippings to add some biomass to the soil.  Next, apply wood chip mulch 6″ deep to help create a healthy fungal network.  We have noticed quite a wide species of mushrooms using this practice and that find this growing environment to be perfect for mushrooms.  An advanced system could use this understory area for mushroom logs to grow shiitake or oyster mushrooms.  The walnuts themselves though are the focal point and are excellent sources of protein, amino acids, and healthy fats.  The hulls can be used to make tinctures, which are often taken by cancer patients treating their condition naturally.

Comfrey:  Around the drip line, we have two species of plants.  The first is comfrey, which is a fantastic biodynamic accumulator.  This plant is used to bring up minerals using its taproot and make them more bioavailable to the upper layers of soil.  This plant can be used for multiple purposes.  It can be chopped and dropped in place for creating organic biomass and weed suppression, and even used as a pollination source for insects.  It can be applied as a poultice to speed the recovery of injured bones, ligaments, and joints.  It is also a fantastic feed for chickens, goats, or cattle.  My chickens go crazy over a handful of comfrey and it gives them a good boost of minerals, biotin, and vitamin B.

NOTE:  I only use bocking 14 comfrey, because it does not spread by seed.  Comfrey which propagates by seed can be extremely invasive and nearly impossible to get rid of down the road, unless you have pigs.  It’s worth it to stick with bocking 14, which can be easily grown from root cuttings.

Mint / Lemon Balm:  Between the comfrey plants, a mint species or lemon balm would work really well.  This will help serve as both a ground cover and a source of continual pollination in the vegetative layer.  This makes mint a great choice, because there are continuous flowers to serve as a support species, and the juglone in the soil will help control mint from spreading out of control.  The leaves can be used in a tea to aid in digestion and relaxation, or can also be ground into a poultice for injured muscles.  If using lemon balm, the leaves are also used as a tea for insomnia, stress and anxiety relief, and to help digestion.  For those in fitness, both teas are extremely helpful in assisting in the repair and soothing of the muscular system.

Golden Currant:  The next layer has golden currants.  These spring and summer berries are excellent sources of antioxidants and do well in part sun.  They are best planted on the South and West sides of the tree, but can be interspersed throughout the planting guild.  The bright yellow flower clusters in the spring are satisfactory pollinators, but will be very showy and a source of color and beauty within the guild.  The berries are extremely sweet and have high antioxidants. They are easily picked and eaten raw or can be used in smoothies.

Gooseberry:  This plant is a great one to grow in the shade and is very tolerant of the juglone produced by the walnut.  These can be planted on the North and East sides of the tree or interspersed around the planting.  The slightly sour berries can be eaten raw, used in smoothies, or cooked down into a jelly or preserve.  They are high in vitamin C, A, and manganese.  As a berry, they also contain a surprising amount of minerals, including calcium and phosphorus.

Mulberry / Redbud:  In the final layer, it is a great place to put dwarf species that can either be food sources or nitrogen fixers.  In our area, I prefer to use the nitrogen fixing Eastern Red Bud.  The red bud tree produces pink / purple flowers in the springtime, which put on a great visual show.  Later in the spring, they produce a pea like pod that can be cooked and eaten like a snap pea as a source of early season plant protein.  The tree is a satisfactory legume tree, which has a root system producing nitrogen-fixing nodules to help rebuild the soil.

On the other hand, one could also plant a mulberry tree, though in this setting I would prune it to remain a bush for easier harvesting.  Mulberries grown as a tree are often harder to harvest and just make a mess on the ground.  The mulberries are excellent food sources for humans and wildlife.  Mulberries contain riboflavin, vitamin C, K, iron, and potassium.  They are also rich in antioxidants and contain alkaloids that activate macrophages to help build the immune system.

Other Growing Zones

Regardless of where you live or what type of top story tree you are using as your centerpiece, there are likely many species that will thrive under and at the edge of the canopy.  For those living in southern states, one particular tree that is challenging to grow under is the southern Live Oak.  CLICK HERE TO READ ABOUT LIVE OAK COMPANION PLANTS.  However, there are still many plants that can be easily grown on the edge and even in the deep shade of the canopy.

So go find a tree on your land and start planning your next gardening area for the deep shade!  Abundance awaits – I’ll see you in the garden.

– Kristofer Edler | PermacultureFX Founder

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What to Plant Under an Oak Tree in Florida

The live oaks, swamp oaks, and scrub oaks of Florida can be some of the most challenging areas to grow under. In the Midwest and cold climates, there is a similar problem planting under black walnut trees. The dense canopy and high tannins in the soil make it hard for many species to thrive. However, this area is prime real estate for many types of plants. So if you are someone who has been wondering what you can plant under an oak tree in Florida… this article is for you!

Best Plants for Under and Oak Tree in Florida

1 – Spiral Ginger

This gorgeous tropical plant grows in part – full shade and looks like a corkscrew pattern. The spiral shape adds visual interest to the landscape and both the flowers and roots are edible and medicinal. Roots can be saved year-to-year or just left in the ground and grown perennially. (Cheilocostus speciosus)

2 – Aloe

Plants in the aloe family do really well under the canopy of the oak tree. The dappled light gives the perfect place to add succulents for texture and visual interest. Most succulents (like aloe and desert roses) will stay put and will not spread, but shade plants like mother-in-law tongue may spread over a larger area. (barbadensis miller)

 

3 – Shampoo Ginger

This popular landscape ginger may not be the best edible variety, but the water that comes from the cone (when squeezed) is excellent for a shampoo or soap alternative. It is also beneficial for skin health and treating / preventing fungal issues. You can add the water to your shower gel OR use it directly on the skin. (Zingiber zerumbet)

4 – Black Turmeric

This is the most potent of all the ginger and turmerics when it comes to its anti-inflammatory properties. It has been traditionally used to make teas and tinctures that benefit the immune system, gut health, and for potential anti-cancer benefits. The roots of the plant range from a deep blue to near black in color and the flowers are so bright they look like a bromeliad. Blooms, which display in June – August, last well over a month. (Cucurma caesia) You can order this organic plant from A Natural Farm, and it can be shipped nation-wide.

NOTE: ANY member of the ginger and turmeric family, including galangal, is able to grow really well under a Florida oak. Cover them with wood chips and walk away.

5 – Polka Dot Plant

This hardy ground cover grows up to 15″ tall and has a variety of patterns on the foliage. Smaller pink flowers are good for pollination. This plant will survive all but the most severe frosts, but will usually come back even after a hard freeze. It is easily propagated from cuttings and can be grown in full shade to dappled morning sun. (Hypoestes phyllostachya)

A few more suggestions to plant under an oak tree in Florida

6 – Katuk

This wonderful edible plant is used all over the world in soups, stews, and salads. The leaves and small flowers have a slightly nutty flavor. They do contain oxalates, so limit consumption to 3-4 days a week. This gorgeous, shade loving plant grows quickly and can be 8-10′ tall. It loves pruning and harvesting, so be sure to enjoy it at the kitchen table as well as in the garden. (auropus androgynus)

7 – Fire Spike

If you want to attract hummingbirds and butterflies to your garden, this is your plant! Fire Spike does well at the back of the garden, because it can be 7-10′ tall in the right conditions. Flowers most often come in red, but can also be found in purple and orange. Hummingbirds and butterflies love the nectar of this tall, shade-loving plant. It does do well in part sun as well, but its growth might be a little slower. (Odontonema cuspidatum)

8 – Pigeon Berry

Although these berries are not edible for humans… the wild songbirds love them! Butterflies and bees use the small pink flowers as a native food source. This plant can spread as a ground cover or be grown to be 24″ tall. The plant is also known in some areas as “rogue berry” or blood berry. Historically, the red berries were used to make dyes and ink. (Rivina humilis)

9 – Wild Coffee

This plant is an excellent food source for wild birds, butterflies, and bees. The berries can be dried and roasted for a coffee substitute, but should not be eaten raw. The flavor is much more bold and bitter than arabica coffee. The glossy leaves have an interesting texture and deep green color that really stand out under the shade of an oak tree. This dwarf bush can grow 18-24″ tall. (Psychotria nervosa)

10 – Monstera (Swiss Cheese plant)

This popular house plant, which actually has an edible flower, can be grown in the ground or in a pot under an oak canopy. The large leaves provide gorgeous visual interest and breathtaking beauty. Overtime, this plant loves to climb, and can even be trained up the trunk of a large oak tree. This is a great alternative to the invasive “pothos” plant, which should never go in the ground in Florida. (Monstera deliciosa)

11 – Turk’s Cap Hibiscus

Grows in either shade or sun and has edible flowers that hang down gracefully throughout the warmer months and up until frost. Peak time: June – December. Edible flowers, great pollinating plant. Generally comes in red, but white is a rare find.

If you’d like more help designing your garden, orchard, or yard to integrate edible landscape – we’d love to help!

CLICK HERE TO LEARN MORE ABOUT OUR DESIGN SERVICES

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How to Plant a Food Forest | Part 2 SOIL

Preparing the Soil for Your Food Forest

Transitioning your decorative landscape into an edible one is much easier than you may think. Learning how to plant a food forest can be as simple as replacing one “inedible” plant at a time over a period of years, or it can be as complex as installing a productive food forest through intentional permaculture design. Either way, I am convinced that I am “winning at life” is when I can go into my backyard and pick a peach right off the tree OR fix a full garden salad right from my back porch. It’s true, there are few things more fulfilling than having friends and family over for wine and cheese, and then stocking your charcuterie board with nuts, berries, and pickled items from your property.

Before you start plopping your new fruit trees and berry bushes into the ground, it’s important to take time and assess the site. As a designer, I am convinced that it takes a year of studying the site before you can REALLY get to know it. However, a trained eye can definitely get a plan into motion and help you get started. If you want to look into a consultation to help you develop a site plan, click here. Planting a food forest is an invitation to know and interact with your site and learn to steward the land accordingly. Whether you decide to hire a permaculture designer to partner with you or assess the land yourself, there are a few initial questions to get to you started in selecting your location (CLICK HERE).

The Most Important Step Starts Right Under Your Feet

The single most important step you will take in this entire process will be how you prepare your soil before you even put anything into the ground. In fact, the best thing you can do is prepare the soil for an entire season before you even plant your first tree or shrub. There are multiple ways you can both clear the land and/or build organic matter in the soil. Some of these methods will depend on what you have available and how much land you need to clear and prepare.

Option 1: Animal and Livestock to Build the Soil

This is, perhaps, the best possible way to not only clear the land of weeds and grasses, but also build the soil at the same time. If you have a lot of bushes, shrubs, or undergrowth, then goats are the best way to clear this area. In fact, some of their favorite foods are things like Virginia creeper and poison ivy! They have amazingly strong digestive systems and will do a great job at turning the bushes and underbrush into fertilizer for the new plot. Once the shrubs are removed, then you can send in the chickens to take care of the grasses and smaller weeds. They will finish the job nicely, till up the soil, scratch up the dirt, remove bugs and pests… and again turn them all into fertilizer for you! Not only is this source of fresh feed better for your soil, but it’s far better for your animals that bags of conventional feed.

In order to control them and focus their energy, I like to keep them in a smaller area (which I rotate) using a solar electric fence. Personally, I use a set-up from Premier One Fencing Supplies and have had minimal escape problems or predator animal attacks. Once the animals have cleared an area, then move the fence to the next zone to keep them working and fertilizing.

 

Option 2: Light Tilling and Smother Cropping

If you do not have access to animals, then you will need plan ahead several months before starting your food forest. Another way you can clear the area and also build your soil is to lightly till the area to remove weeds and grasses. Get as many of them out by hand as you can, and then follow with a ground cover or smother crop. Ground covers for the cooler climates are listed here. My favorite smother crop for the Midwest and cold climate growing zones is buckwheat and crimson clover. If you are in a warmer climate, the primary ground cover I would use is Sunn Hemp. Plant this is June and let it grow to max height (6-8 feet), and then chop-and-drop it in August. This plant can easily be buried or tilled under in August and will not only build the organic matter in the soil, but will also repair nitrogen content. Because of its dense growth habit, it will often smother out other weeds and grasses. At the end of the growing season, till these under and then you’ll be ready for a fall planting. Otherwise, you can leave it over the winter to decompose in place and plant in the spring.

Option 3: Layer Mulching

This method works really well and provides fast organic matter, but it does require higher inputs into your system. Often called lasagna mulching, this is a much better alternative to the “Back to Eden” method, which only uses ramified wood chips. Starting at the ground level (and working our way up), here are the layer I would recommend.

  1. Cardboard (remove tape and staples)
  2. Chopped up leaves (using a lawn mower)
  3. Grass clippings
  4. Straw (not hay, because you do not want seed heads)
  5. Manure and/or compost)
  6. 4-6″ of ramified woodchips

Once you have this in place, you can either plant immediately or wait for a few months to let the worms and microorganisms do their job. My preference is to wait a bit and let the layer mulching start working before plant installation.

Option 4: Black Tarp

This method is fast working (during warm summer months), but is also one that does the most harm to the soil. Putting a black tarp down over the area will most definitely cook the grasses, weeds, and pests. However, it will also cook a lot of the good bacteria, worms, and microorganisms in the soil. I rarely, if ever use this method.

Option 5: Spraying

The least recommended method in my book is to use a chemical spray. The ONLY two organic sprays I would recommend for a weed and vegetation killer would be either orange oil OR horticultural vinegar (30-45%). Both of these are effective at removing weeds, but they also have a short impact on the soil. The downside is that vinegar and orange oil will both kill any insects (topically) and will impact the pH of the soil you are working with. Though they will remove the weeds, it will also cause more work in the long run to repair and rejuvenate the soil.

Food Forest at A Natural Farm in Howey in the Hills, Florida

Soil Regeneration is the Key to Your Food Forests Health

Spending adequate time in the stage of soil building is absolutely key to the longterm success of your food forest. However, keep in mind that a good garden or food forest will be a continuous journey of rejuvenating soil and creating more organic matter. Perhaps even more than producing a good crop for human consumption, the role of a gardener is likely better described as one who stewards the soil and all the life therein. I’m not saying that all problems in the garden (fungal, pests, insectary imbalances, nutrient deficiencies, etc.) can be solved by compost alone… but 97.3% of them can be. If the soil (and its microbial and fungal balance) is in healthy shape and rich with organic matter, the fruit and flowers that appear above ground will likewise be healthy. Inversely, it’s nearly impossible to maintain healthy plants at the expense of soil biology. Personally, I apply compost every spring and refresh my wood chips each fall. In (sub)tropical climates, compost is best applied in February, June, and September.

If I notice that plants are on the struggle bus, I almost always start with two steps. First, add organic compost and the secondly apply a foliar spray. Either way, building soil is the single most important step of planting a garden or food forest. Generally speaking, when applying compost, use a fungal dominated compost for hard stemmed plants (trees, shrubs, and bushes) and a bacterially dominated compost to soft stemmed plants (veggie gardens and perennial flowers). If you do not have a fungal compost available to you, you can introduce mycorrhizal activity by adding flour to your compost pile.

So, before you plant your trees, shrubs, and bushes – consider how you might improve your soil quality and build organic matter. Share your ideas for new site soil preparation below…

FULL FOOD FOREST BLOG SERIES

Part 1:  Myths about Planting a Food Forest

Part 2:  How to Prepare the Soil for a Food Forest

Part 3:  Selecting the Right Plants for a Food Forest

Part 4:  How to Install a Food Forest

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How to Plant a Food Forest | Part 1 MYTHS

How to start a food forest

Part One: Food Forest Myths

There is a growing desire in the gardening and regenerative agriculture movements to grow low-maintenance gardens that still offer productive abundance. Learning how to start a food forest is one way to have a productive area with minimal long-term maintenance. Since there are many ways to build these areas, the system described in this series of articles is intended to be adapted to your individual space and growing zone. Keep in mind, there is not a perfect copy-and-paste method of how to build a food forest, but there some key points to keep in mind. Before explaining a few of those broad-brush stokes, let’s talk about a few myths regarding food forests.

Food Forest Myths

  1. “Think about plants before thinking about soil.” – This is, perhaps, the easiest trap to fall into when it comes to building a food forest. Yes, it is GOOD to get excited about the plants, varieties, colors, and textures. Gimme all the plants! However, if we do not first think about soil health and biology, then we cannot expect it to provide abundance in return. The more we partner with the ecosystem by building soil, the more the soil will give back to us by nourishing our trees and shrubs. By skipping the step of soil building, we are essentially taking nutrients from the ground without offering something in return, which will be detrimental in the long-term. Before you put in any plants – add organic matter to your soil.
  2. “Get the trees in the ground, then figure out water later.” – No matter how many beautiful trees and shrubs we put in the ground, if we don’t water them enough in their establishment phase – the trees will suffer and possibly die. Moisture retention in the soil is what will help increase mulch decomposition and soil microbial activity. This moisture will also help increase the needed mycorrhizal fungi in our soil structure. Remember, new plants are often very sensitive (and young), so they need extra care when they first go into the ground.
Food Forest at A Natural Farm and Educational Center – volunteers from one of the PermacultureFX Design Courses.
  1. “Plant things closer together so it looks better.” – Remember, when building a food forest, the goal is to partner with nature in establishing a system in 3-5 years that might take 50 years under natural conditions. With that in mind, it’s important to carefully consider the spacing of the plants to allow for their mature growth and height. Over-planting generally results in a lush green system, but lower levels of fruit and production because the excess shade does not allow for fruiting and pollination. Plan your spacing for mature plant height, and be patient in the initial years while your system gets established. To fill in space during the initial years, use nitrogen fixing ground covers and pollinating wildflowers to provide visual interest.
  2. “You will get fruit the first year.” – This goal may be possible if you spend hundreds of dollars per fruit tree to get specimens that are 5+ years old, however in most cases it will take 3 years to get substantial fruit and 5 years to reach near maximum productivity. Generally speaking, plant growth follows this pattern: Survive – Grow – Thrive. Year one the plant will work on survival and establishing its root system. During the first year, it’s advisable to remove any fruit to allow the plants energy to go to the root system. Next, during the second year, the plant will grow slightly and possibly produce a few small fruit, but most of the energy is focused on the plant becoming established in your specific growing conditions. Finally, in years 3+, the plant will begin to thrive and flourish. At this point, you should begin to see a significant increase and the yield and production levels.

“The Garden was the birthplace of partnership and stewardship. It continues to be a place that is centered upon connection.”

Kris Edler

More Food Forest Myths…

  1. “Food forests do not require any maintenance or upkeep.” – Unfortunately, nothing in life is free. We simply never get something for nothing. The purpose of gardening, specifically in permaculture, is recognizing that we are an active part of the system. Which means, the human element and stewardship greatly increases yield and can help build and regenerate the system. Just like we have the power to destroy a system quickly through mismanagement, we also have the ability to quicken its rejuvenation. The goal of a food forest is NOT to remove ourselves from the equation, but rather to integrate intelligent design in a way that our involvement results in a healed ecosystem. Though a food forest may require less maintenance long-term than a traditional annual vegetable garden, the human connection is still essential in proper stewardship of the land.
  2. “Mowing and tilling the soil are always bad.” – Though there are benefits to a low-till or no-till methods of gardening, they are often necessary in the first 3-5 years in order to help the system reboot. Mowing allows you to bag up nutrients and mulch around trees, creating a microclimate and nutrient dense soil covering that is rich in biomass. It also helps remove invasive species in order for the native plants to have a better chance. Tilling (in small doses) can help remove invasive weed species and can pave the way for replanting in larger areas (i.e. native prairie management or pasture maintenance). Controlled burning methods were used by the First Nation tribes all over North America and arguably around the world over the last thousands of years. These methods may not be an everyday tool, but are often necessary to help restart a damaged system and bring it back into balance.
How to start a food forest
Permaculture in Central Florida (second year example of a small food forest installation)

The Last Few Food Forest Myths

  1. “Only plant native species.” – This one is controversial for sure. Personally, I prefer to use as many native plants (especially pollinators) as possible, because I know it’s best for the birds, bees, and butterflies. Generally speaking, the native plants are also known to be far more disease resistant and tolerant of local weather conditions. At the end of the day, native species will always require less maintenance. That being said, traders have been moving species around the planet for as long as we have historical records. In Europe, the seeds of tomatoes, brassicas, and beans were saved and traded among pre-historic tribes. Sailers, traders, and merchants brought squash, corn, and pumpkins with them to North America 600 years ago and have been used here ever since. So, as long as a species is not invasive or damaging to the local ecosystem, they may actually provide human and wildlife benefit when properly introduced. If in doubt, grow your new plant in a pot for 3-5 years and test it out. Better yet, call your local extension office to ask them about any questionable species.
  2. “Summer is the best time to plant my food forest.” – For most of us, the summer is the time we are up and moving, full of energy, and ready to be productive. The same is true with plants – this is a time for them to be productive, but it’s rarely the best time to plant. Summer heat and drier weather can be hard on newly transplanted stock. Generally speaking, the best time to plant is when the trees are still dormant. In USDA Growing Zones 3-8 that would be either September – early November OR March – April. However, in Growing Zones 9-11 the best time to plant is in the winter months. That being said, winters in the Southern US are often dry, so some people prefer to wait until March – April. The ONLY benefit of planting in the summer in the south is that it’s rainy season. However, sometimes that helps and sometimes the heat + rain is actually harder on the plants. For those of us who garden in Florida… it’s a toss up!
How to Plant a Fruit Tree or Berry Bush
  1. “Dig a hole, put the tree in the ground, and you’re done. “ – There is actually a best practice process when planting fruit trees and berry bushes. Most of the time they prefer extra water while they are getting established, but like to dry slightly out between waterings. Secondly, fruit trees should never just be planted in the grass, because the grass will both compete for moisture and nutrients. Click here to read the blog post about “How to Plant a Fruit Tree or Berry Bush.” The primary exceptions to these are citrus and mango, because they prefer sandy and well drained soil. They like compost top dressings, but don’t do well with traditional wood chip mulching.
  2. “We should randomly plant unmaintained food forests in the city.” – In theory, the fruit trees will provide free food for the community and for the poor. In theory, these trees will thrive and produce food for inner city kids. In theory… HOWEVER, in actuality, fruit trees and bushes need maintenance to not only keep their shape and overall health, but they need to be appropriately harvested. Fallen fruit that is not properly harvested can actually feed rats, raccoons, and other city pests. Food forests are an incredible tool, but they are not a magic cure-all for every scenario. They require proper stewardship, and like all living things… they require connection.

FULL FOOD FOREST BLOG SERIES

Part 1:  Myths about Planting a Food Forest

Part 2:  How to Prepare the Soil for a Food Forest

Part 3:  Selecting the Right Plants for a Food Forest

Part 4:  How to Install a Food Forest

 

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How to Keep Chickens Cool During Hot Weather

During times of extreme summer heat, it’s important to not only keep our families safe and cool, but also our chickens and farm animals. Here are some easy ways to keep your chickens cool in extreme heat and help their bodies cope with extreme temperatures.

  1. Change their water multiple times a day: Practically speaking, this will keep the water temperature cooler and your activity around the waterer will remind them to get a bit to drink. There are attachments available online to even turn a medium sized water cooler (like an Igloo) into a chicken waterer, which will keep the water cooler longer (or warmer in the winter).
  2. Add ACV and honey to their water: The honey and apple cider vinegar are a great way to add electrolytes and probiotics to their water. Think of this like Gatorade for chickens. Honey is also antibacterial, so it is strengthening their stressed immune system.  You can also purchase a chicken supplement to add to their water, but I generally use what I have on hand in the kitchen.
  3. Watermelon treat: Cut the watermelon in half and put one half inside the chicken run (like a giant bowl) and let them go to town. Watermelon contains electrolytes that are important for the birds during extreme heat, but it is also very easy to digest, which will help keep their body heat down. Leave the rinds in the run and fill them with water for the next 24 hours like a giant watermelon bowl (see image below).
  1. Frozen veggies in a muffin tin (corn, canned spinach, canned tuna): This Poultry Popsickle is possibly my favorite way to keep chickens cool and also provide a nice treat for them during the extreme heat. Buy some canned corn, spinach, or even tuna and empty the contents into a muffin tin. Slide the tin into the freezer overnight and you’ll have perfect little frozen veggie muffins to entertain the birds and keep healthy them cool.
  1. Proper airflow in the coop: Open up two sides of the coop in order to create a nice cross breeze. Allowing proper airflow will not only cools the birds, but also helps to prevent mold from forming due to the stagnant and humid air.
  2. Access to fresh veggies and fruit: These are normally used as “treats” for the flock, but access to a little extra green material on a hot day will be easy for them to digest and provide micronutrients for the flock. Stay away from treating with things like cracked corn, which may increase their body temps as they digest it.
  1. Create a shaded run or temporarily move coop under a tree: During the extreme heat, provide adequate shade for your flock. If you are have the ability to grow vines up the side of the run, this will provide a nice living shaded area for them. Pole bean, squash, butterfly pea, and passion vine are great choices or this (depending on your growing zone).
  2. Cool their feet: Run the hose on the ground for 10-15 min in the heat of the day so they can walk in it. Chickens can regulate body temps through their feet, so give them a little water on the ground to wade in and they will be happy campers. Practically speaking, hot days are also a great time to clean and sterilize your coop (and leave them open for the day). I sweep and scrape mine out and then either spray and wash with Basic H OR add it to the powerwasher and give everything a nice spray down. Then leave the coop open for the day to dry. Do this in the morning, so the coop has the full day to air dry.
  3. Dust bath (shaded) with wood ash: Dust bathing should be available at all times, because this is a primary way for them to stay clean and cool. Fill a 6-8″ deep container with sand for them to play in and occasionally add a few shovels full of wood ash. This will help treat them for any mites and fleas. Do NOT use Diatomaceous Earth, as this is terrible for their respiratory health; DE should only be used WET or in very small quantities of their feed (3%). Always keep the dust bath in a shaded area, otherwise the sand will get too hot for the birds.
  1. Keep bedding fresh and add herbs (fresh or dried): During heat waves, it’s important to keep things fresh in order to prevent mold, bacterial growth, and to help control insects. Keep nesting boxes and bedding fresh at all times. Add in fresh or dried herbs to repel insects and provide a little fun for the hens. You can add leaves or flowers to the nesting boxes or hang bundles of herbs around the coop. Use things like mint, bee balm, oregano, thyme, fennel, dill, or lemon balm. For flowers, you can use petals from marigolds, roses, snapdragons, sunflowers, etc.

Leave a comment below if you found this helpful, and feel free to share the article on social media to help your chicken friends try out a few new ways to keep the girls cool in the summer.

BONUS: Click here to find out ways to keep chickens warm in the winter.

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