How to Build a Banana Circle

One of the most common inquiries that I received while working at a food forest nursery and educational center in Central Florida was how to build a banana circle. Banana circles have benefits on multiple levels, both for the environment and for the human community.

First, they utilize companion planting so that the growth habits of the various species included benefit that of the others. In essence, they work together symbiotically by providing nitrogen, biomass, shade for other species in the circle, etc. Secondly, banana circles are beneficial because they provide stationary composting scenarios that do not require turning. Lastly, a banana circle provides a way to readily utilize grey water runoff from a house or a well. This is extremely beneficial in both rainforest and (sub)tropical climates because it lessens “open water”. This not only decreases the potential for disease and bacteria, but also eliminates the breeding ground for malaria-causing mosquitoes.

If you are in a tropical or subtropical climate, learning how to grow a banana circle is not only an excellent regenerative agricultural practice, but also a way to bring natural beauty to areas that are often more difficult to design around. So, here are is an easy-to-follow diagram with simple steps for building a banana circle.

Diagram of How to Building Build a Banana Circle

Simple Steps to Building a Banana Circle

Dig your hole. A small banana circle should be a bowl-shaped hole that is 1-2 yards in diameter and about 3 feet deep in the center. A larger circle can be 2-2.5 yards in diameter and 3-3.5 feet deep in the center. It is better to have multiple circles this size than to try and make a pit larger than the sizes listed. Otherwise, the organic matter may not decompose quickly enough and it will be harder to harvest crops around the circle.
Pile the dirt around the outside edge of the hole in the shape of a donut. This circular swale is where you will plant most of your trees. Under the “donut” of soil, you can also bury logs to make huglekultur swales for increased fertility and water retention.
Fill the pit with mulch and compost. Use kitchen scraps, small sticks, yard clippings, leaves, cardboard, newspaper, etc. Material can continue to be added to this pile as often as needed. Install drainage from existing grey water systems to empty into the pit. Otherwise, if you install pipes or trenches later, you will risk disturbing the plants once they are established.
Plant around the outside of the circle using the diagram above. If you are doing a larger circle, plant no more than 4 banana plants (at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock) around the circle. This will allow them adequate space to spread out. Beans (not pictured above) can be planted anywhere in the system to fill in space and provide nitrogen for the other plants. Climbing beans can be used on the bananas once they have reached a mature height. In the earlier phases it is best to use bush beans. If you are in the US, I have purchased organic plants for banana circles from A Natural Farm and Educational Center.
Don’t over plant. Plant quantities for a large (2-3 yard diameter) circle: 4 Banana, 2 papaya, 2 sugar cane, 2 taro, 10-12 sweet potato slips).
Water. Water the center and harvest the edges.

Banana Circle Maintenance

Spring (after danger of frost): Cut off dead banana leaves and chop and drop any spent plants and throw them into the center of the circle.
Add moisture to the center of the pit during the dry season. Water ONLY in the center of the pit. Do NOT water the mound or edges of the swale.
Keep adding organic matter to the compost pile in the center.
Plant sweet potatoes farther away from larger plants, for ease of harvest. Add in bush beans in any gaps that you find.
Mulch on the outside using wood chips to create a path and accessible area for harvesting.
Consider a late spring foliar spray for papayas to prevent “black spot”.
Harvest sweet potatoes in the autumn OR once leaves have died back. Be careful to not disturb the tree roots nearby.
Consider additional plants: Blackberry, raspberry, ginger, turmeric, and katuk can also be planted nearby or in the shaded areas.
Consider a linear pattern: The same plants in the diagram and the additional ones listed above can be used in a line as well as in a circle. The key is to make sure they all have access to the mulch pit (in this case trench line)
Consider pond or wetland areas: These plants can also be planted along pond or water edges in other contexts. Papaya, however, will do better is a well drained (higher up) place in the system).

Banana Circles as a Gray Water Run-off Catchment System

In many tribal communities, the water well is a place of social interaction as much as it meets a practical need. Adding a banana circle to this area helps create a sense of beauty, but is also extremely practical. In many tribal systems, the people will either burn or throw out plant material instead of using it in a composting system. However, changing this simple component can help build their soil, provide food, and bring new strategies of sanitization and disease prevention.

On an ecological level, as the soil improves around these composting circles, the people can then begin to introduce chickens, which will further improve soil quality. The compost will feed the chickens and they will add their own biomass to the system via their droppings. Though it may take a few years to dramatically improve soil quality, the lasting impact of these systems is profound. Utilizing waste water and compostable material is ideal in creating micro-ecosystems that can help restore abundant soil health.

Just to reiterate, standing water (especially in humid climates) can foster disease and bacteria when left untreated. By funneling the run-off water and planting a banana circle, we are not only utilizing the excess water, but also purifying it before it attracts disease and mosquitoes.

The compost pit in the center creates a place for mycelial mass to thrive, which helps destroy many disease causing bacteria. Furthermore, the fungal networks will also act as a way to break down organic matter and fertilize the soil. Palm fronds (specifically) are especially beneficial in this type of a composting system. Essentially, they release phosphate which boosts the networks of mycelium in the soil.

Keep in mind, however, that bananas and mycelium alone can only handle minor pollutants (like grey water, kitchen water, run-off, etc.). Do NOT use this system as a way to use black water.

What additional insight can you provide for others regarding banana circles?

What specific varieties have worked well for you?

Leave your tips in the comments below and tag @permaculturefx on social media so we can share your banana circle posts to further educate others.

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March 23, 2021May 12, 2022

How to Plant a Fruit Tree or Berry Bush

Easy Instructions for Successful Fruit Tree Planting

Prep the site: Make sure utilities have been clearly marked by calling 8-1-1 before you dig.
Gather materials: You will need cardboard or contractor paper for weed suppression, compost, wood chip mulch, shovel, water.
Digging the hole – Remove the plant carefully from the pot and set it next to the hole. When digging, the initial hole should be nearly twice as big as the root ball itself. Put most of the dirt you are removing in a wheelbarrow or the pot it came in. You will be filling the hole back up with the native dirt.
- Placing the plant – Set the root ball in the hole. The top of the root ball should be 2-3” higher than the soil line.
  - Do NOT let the root ball go lower than the soil level. Remember, the plant will settle into the hole. Backfill the hole with the native soil.
  - Do NOT put fertilizer or compost into the hole. Doing so will cause the roots of the plant to want to stay inside the hole instead of venturing out and establishing a wider root system. Amendments should always be applied to the top of the soil.
Weed suppression barrier – Use contractor paper or cardboard around the tree (whether in a circle or in a row) to kill the grass and suppress weeds. If you are using cardboard, be sure to remove any staples or tape. This area should be several feet on each side of the tree in order to protect the roots and help decomposition.
Compost – Apply a 1” layer of compost to the top of the soil. Keep all top dressing away from the trunk / stem of the plant. The width of the ring should be twice the width of the canopy of the plant.
- Soft stem plants: Use a compost that is plant and bacteria based.
- Hard stemmed bushes / trees: Use a mushroom or fungal based compost when possible.
Mulch – Use a good mulch or wood chips as your top dressing (4-5” deep).
- Wood chips: Better for woody stemmed and /or mature plants. The benefit is that it takes longer to break down and provides a cleaner look. Drawback is that for annual vegetables it can tie up nitrogen when it initially breaks down.
- Straw or grass clippings: Better for annual flowers and annual vegetables. Benefit is that it breaks down faster and helps heal the soil quickly. Drawback is that is needs to be reapplied multiple times a year.
- NOTE: You can layer your mulch (leaves, grass clippings, straw, and wood chips on top). Do not mulch deeper than 6” at a time.
Watering – For your first watering, consider using a probiotic spray (https://www.scdprobiotics.com/products/scd-bio-ag-soil-amendment?sca_ref=1290056.jX6cET8IFB).
- After the initial watering, use the finger / soil test to determine when the plant needs to be watered. In general, most plants like to dry out between watering.
  - Finger test: Put your finger into the soil at the base of the tree down to the biggest knuckle. If the soil is moist, do not water. If it is dry, then consider watering.
- Plants like to be watered less frequently with a deeper watering. Do not water the trunk of the tree, always water about 12” from the trunk (or at the drip line of the canopy). Watering the trunk can cause root rot. If you are using drip irrigation, a sprinkler, or bubbler, make sure they are not spraying the wood or branches of the tree.
- After the first year, with annual mulch application, you should rarely need to water. Once established, let the tree roots do their job and only water during drought times or when the trees look overly stressed.

REMINDER: Fertilization in subtropic and tropical climates is best done in February, June, and September on fruit trees and berry bushes. In cooler climates, it should be done in March / April (just before flowers emerge) and again in June just before fruit set. After the first year, fertilization is best applied as a quality compost or manure. Chemical fertilizers are unnecessary and do not help the soil in the long run.

For additional benefit you can also apply a compost tea or late spring foliar spray during the same months listed above

December 7, 2020December 8, 2020

Medicinal Plants and How To Use Them

In the midst of challenging times, we have a choice of whether to give in to fear or focus on abundance and hope. CLICK HERE FOR INTRO VIDEO. Personally, I will always choose the side of hope. In that choice, I have made the conscious and intentional goal to be more self sufficient and sustained. Planting your own veggie or herb garden is an easy step, and one that you can take regardless of your living conditions.

The following document download contains the notes from a session on “Medicinal Plants and How to Use Them”, which was given at A Natural Farm, in Howey-in-the-Hills, Florida in December 2020.

Feel free to share this link with a friend, who might benefit from this information.

Happy Gardening!

FREE SESSION NOTES

Medicinal Herbs Notes SHORT Download

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March 15, 2020May 24, 2023

Best Compost Tea Recipe

Learn how to make the best compost tea recipe for your organic garden, orchard, and house plants. Using organic permaculture methods, you will help create an abundant environment for your plants and animals to thrive! With this simple recipe, you can make gallons of this living probiotic fertilizer for your plants and will see fast acting results within a matter of days. It’s always recommended to test a small amount of this first, to make sure it doesn’t burn your specific plants. If in doubt, dilute this recipe with water.

What you’ll need to make the best compost tea!

Large drum container (a 10 or 50 gallon works great, but you can also do this in smaller batches in a 5 gallon bucket.
Aerator pump (you can either purchase one online or use a fish tank bubbler with a large soapstone).
Probiotic for the soil (I highly recommend using a concentrated living product called BioAg, which was created by SCD Probiotics).
Fish Emulsion (preferably organic. I use one from GS Plant Foods or Neptune’s Harvest)
Neam oil (or leaves)
Cured animal poop (Rabbit is best for manure, but worm castings are my fav overall)
Comfrey leaves (4-5 large leaves)
Molasses or cane sugar (1/4 cup for a 5 gallon 2 cups for a 50 gallon drum)
Pond sludge, lake or stream water for local beneficial microorganisms (1 gallon)
A few banana peels (for potassium)
Dried kelp meal (optional, but sometimes sea weed is included in the fish emulsion)

How to make the best compost tea

Put all liquid ingredients into the bottom of the water container using the recommended dosage for your specific product. The reason there are not any quantities above is because it may vary from company to company (product to product), so the rule of thumb is to use LESS of their recommended dilution. For example, I often only use 50-60% potency of any given product.
Put solid ingredients in an old t-shirt (with ends tied shut) to create a make-shift “tea bag”.
Lower the bubbler / aerator into the bottom of the container. This helps create an oxygen rich environment for the microorganisms to multiply in. Do not skip this step, or you will risk an anaerobic liquid, which may harm your plants and soil.
Fill the container with water and let bubble for 24-36 hours.
Apply as a foliar spray or to the soil around your plants. This mixture needs to be applied / used within 4-6 hours, so the microorganisms stay alive and healthy.
You may use to water OR dilute for a foliar spray in a backpack style sprayer.
This solution can also be used as a spring foliar spray (click here for additional recipe)
TIP: Apply this recipe in the evening or before a rain, so the water flushes it deeper into your soil. Avoid any foliar spraying in the heat of the day or during full sun hours.

Videos that might be helpful

Basic Foliar Spray
Ninja Master Foliar Spray (and probiotic info)
Organic Fertilizers You Don’t Have to Buy from a Box Store

March 3, 2020March 3, 2020

How to Make Fermented Chicken Feed

Learning to make your own fermented chicken feed can help you save money and have healthier birds. By soaking your chicken feed in water, the seeds will expand, releasing locked up nutrients, and will also deliver important probiotics to your flock. In turn, your birds will be healthier, happier, and your wallet just a little fuller.

Basic Chicken Feed Recipe

Ingredients are measured by “parts”

Mix the feed using a unit of measurement that suits your particular situation by changing the size of the unit of measurement. For example, one part (in the recipe below) could mean “a coffee can full”, “a scoop full”, “one cup full”, “one bucket full”, etc. In essence, this recipe will make 12 parts total. So, if your unit for measuring is one cup, you’ll be adding 2 cups of cracked corn, 1 cup of oats, 1/2 cup of kelp, etc…. which will then give you 12 cups of dry feed when the recipe is complete. If you use a 1 gallon scoop for your unit, you will get 12 gallons of mixed dry feed.

Here is the basic chicken feed recipe:

2 cracked corn
1 oats
1/2 kelp meal
1 barley
2 milo
2 wheat
1 alfalfa (pellets)
1.5 split peas
1/2 flax (ground or whole)

NOTE: It’s important to use organic / non-GMO ingredients when possible.

NOTE 2: Use 1/4 part aragonite for layers as a calcium supplement

How to Ferment Chicken Feed

How to ferment your feed

Use the chicken feed recipe above OR your own whole grain feed mix. Fermenting feed does not work well with pelletized food, because when soaked it makes a mush that some chickens may avoid. In addition, non-organic foods may also contain added antibiotics or chemicals that may change the fermentation process.
Fill a five gallon bucket 1/2 full of feed.
Add 1/3 cup of apple cider vinegar OR 2 tablespoons of BioLivestock (by SCD probiotics) to start the fermentation process.
Add enough water so that the bucket is 2/3 full. Your feed will expand, so be sure to allow room for this. You may need to modify this quantity based on your feed type.
Keep 2” of water on top of the feed at all times. This will help prevent mold from growing on your feed. Whenever you see mold, the ferment will need to be discarded.
Let it sit for 3-4 days to get the ferment going. You’ll smell the ferment (slightly sour) as it becomes ready. You should never see mold growing or smell a rotten smell in the bucket. You may choose to lightly set a lid or board on top of the bucket (do not press sealed) in order to keep critters out.
Feed your chickens the fermented feed (within 5 days) using a pan or tray and make sure to add more water to the ferment so the seeds are covered at all times.
Use a scoop from a previously fermented bucket to start a new bucket of feed, similar to a kombucha scoby. Once the ferment is started, you will not need to add more of the apple cider vinegar or BioLivestock, unless it’s a completely new fermented bucket.
The general rule is that if you feed a scoop of fermented feed, add a new scoop to the bucket, so you don’t have to start from scratch each time. Think of it like a sour dough starter for chickens.

Soaking and fermenting your own feed is a much healthier choice for your flock. It delivers powerful probiotics in a way that is bioavailable to birds, and also expands the food using water so that you use less feed. This nutrient dense way of feeding your flock will not only increase their overall health and well-being, but also give you healthier eggs for you and your family. Enjoy!

January 2, 2020January 2, 2020

How to Find and Harvest Chaga Mushroom

Mushroom hunting is something that many foragers and homesteaders want to try, but for some reason are put off by the fear of being poisoned. However, I would suggest that although mushroom identification can be challenging at first, there are a few species that are easy to identify, hard to miss, and have very few (if any) look a-likes. These species are great starting points for those who want to get starting in the mushroom world. Lion’s Mane, Chaga, Chicken of the Woods, Morel, and Oyster mushrooms are among some of these species that are both easy to identify and use. In this article, we’ll give you a step-by-step process of how to find and harvest chaga mushrooms. A later article (after ours have dried) will be created with tea and tincture recipes for chaga and a few bonus tips on how to use chaga in your coffee.

Health Benefits of Chaga – The King of Mushrooms

Nutrient-dense superfood. …
Slowing the aging process. …
Lowering cholesterol. …
Preventing and fighting cancer. …
Lowering blood pressure. …
Supporting the immune system. …
Fighting inflammation. …
Lowering blood sugar.

How to Find Chaga

Step One: Find White Birch

Though chaga will grow on a varieties of trees, the most common is the white (or paper) birch tree (Betula papyrifera). In fact, when growing on this type of tree, the chaga mushroom is the only species that has this growth habit, so you don’t have to worry about mistaking it for another species. Often times, these species of trees grow in sandy soil near pine and oak trees. Because of the bright white bark pealing from the tree, they can be easily seen in the distance. The white bark also makes chaga easy to spot on the side of the trunk.

Step 2: Look Up

More often than not, chaga will grow 8-10′ or higher in the tree. When hunting, bring a ladder and leave it in the truck while you are looking. Then either mark the tree with bright ribbon OR by dropping a pin on your GPS. You have found a specimen, you can go back and get the ladder. Generally speaking, the larger and healthier species will be higher up in the tree, so be sure to bring a friend with you to help hold the ladder while harvesting. It’s also helpful to have someone to hand the chunks to as you cut them, so you don’t have to drop them on the ground.

How to Identify Chaga

Step 3: Look for back and red

When you cut open the chaga, a healthy specimen will have a rough black exterior that resembles burned wood. The interior will have a red / burned orange umber. If the interior looks like wood and has rings, you have found a birch canker which is not edible. However, the black and umber coloring are your primary indicators for a healthy chaga specimen.

How to Harvest Chaga

Step 4: Think about safety

It’s highly recommended to have two people harvesting chaga. One person to hold the ladder (preferably with a helmet and glasses) and a second person who is climbing and chopping. A safety helmet is wise, in case the axe is dropped during harvesting, and the eye protection is best for the person below because chaga tends to come off in hard chunks (with lots of dust).

Step 5: Use a hand axe to remove

Chaga is nearly impossible to remove with just a knife. The black exterior is extremely hard and the high moisture content makes it like removing part of the tree itself. Use the axe to cut it off in manageable chunks. At this time, you’ll see the healthy and living red interior of the mushroom. Only remove <80% of the mushroom, as it may continue to grow in the years ahead. Often times, the same tree will produce more mushrooms.

Step 6: Bag it up

As you harvest, because of the way chaga breaks free, you’ll have a variety of sized chunks. I try to bring a few gallon zip-lock bags for the smaller pieces, because I don’t want to waste any. In some cases, you can even bring a tarp for the base of the tree to help collect the smaller chunks as they fall. Don’t worry, if you miss any pieces, the wild turkeys will eat them and be thankful.

How to Prepare Chaga for Use and Storage

Step 7: Cut it up

Chaga has a very high moisture content, so it needs to dry well before consuming and storage. Using a band saw, cut the chaga into chunks about 1″ each. This is possible using a knife, but will likely dull the blade, because the black exterior of the mushroom is extremely hard.

Step 8: Lay it out to dry

Chaga needs to dry for 6-8 weeks before storage and use. Spread your 1″ chunks out on a sterile surface and turn them weekly to help them dry on all sides. This step should be done in a warm, dry location (i.e. on top of a refrigerator). Once dried, chaga can be used and stored for years.

Your chaga mushroom is now ready for storage and use. There are many ways to incorporate chaga into your diet. In a later article, we’ll give you more tips on how to process, store, and use the chaga.

This is just one of the many topics that will be covered in our winter permaculture design certification course. For more information on this course or upcoming events, click here.

December 16, 2019January 15, 2021

What Can You Plant Between Snows?

In the midst of the winter hibernation, I find myself craving all things GREEN! I want to get outside and play in the dirt again, long for the warm sunshine, and can’t wait to smell the spring flowers. If you are like me, you have frequently googled, “What can you plant between snows?” …only to find very few answers. However, here are a couple of my favorites to help keep your heart hopeful in these long winter months.

Try sowing the following plants in your winter garden, so your yard is ready for springtime.

1 – Sunchokes (Jerusalem Artichokes)

Jerusalem artichokes are among the unsung heroes of the food forest garden. The tubers can be eaten like a potato and the fall plant will become 12′ tall with gorgeous yellow flowers. They need a lot of space and spread quickly, so do not plant them in the flower bed. Use them on the edge of the yard or as a full sun-border.

2 – Garlic

Garlic can be planted in the winter any time the soil can be worked. Plant twice the depth of the size of the clove, with the pointy end facing up. Cover with compost or straw when finished. They are best planted among the strawberries, because they form a beneficial relationship and help keep strawberry bugs away. Plant in full sun.

3 – Alliums

Alliums are among my absolute favorite spring flowers. Globemaster and Gigantium are possibly the most stunning garden perennials in my book and an excellent pollinator. Check out the banner on the top of the article for some other varieties. You can often find these bulbs on sale in early winter at local hardware stores. If you think you have bought enough, get two more (you’ll thank me later).

4 – Crocus & other spring bulbs

Most spring flowering bulbs can be planted until the end of January. Although they will not be as prolific as they may have been (had they been planted in November), they will still flower in the spring and flourish the following year. Crocus, narcissus, and muscari all do well in our area. These are all excellent sources of early color in the garden and great pollinators for bees emerging from their dormancy period.

5 – Comfrey

If you are a chicken, goat, or farm animal keeper – comfrey needs to be on your planting list. It is high in minerals and micronutrients, great for biomass creation, and used as a compost additive. Root cuttings are the most economic, and can be planted in the ground during the winter or indoors and transplanted in the early spring. Use the Bocking 14 variety to prevent seed spreading.

If you are looking for some more tips to satisfy your gardening itch in the winter, be sure to read through the December Gardening To-Do List. You can also sign up for our mailing list below for more FREE resources and information on upcoming events.

November 24, 2019December 1, 2019

Cancer Fighting Food and Medicinal Forest

In this article, we explore the possibilities of a cancer fighting food and medicinal forest, which has been specifically designed for the Midwest USA.

Food forests are a low-maintenance agroforestry system that mimic the natural production of a woodland forest edge. Plants in a food forest are arranged in a way that work in synergy with the natural succession of species in an ecosystem and maximizes their food producing potential. The practice of permaculture (permanent agriculture) seeks to work in harmony with the natural growth processes in order to create a system that speeds up the natural growth pattern of an area. What might take over 100 years in a natural, untouched system, permaculture systems can accomplish in a matter of 3-5 years. After just a few years, there could be a food and medicine producing forest that would provide for those fighting cancer. The food forest creates an ecosystem of productive abundance and is both low-maintenance and long-lasting. This type of system can last hundreds of years, once established, and can provide abundant healing foods for generations to come.

In our cancer fighting planting guild, we have strategically selected plant varieties that have specific anti-carcinogenic properties and immune boosting benefits. We have designed a system where each plant can serve the one planted next to it. For example, nitrogen fixing cassia plants help fertilize walnut and plum trees. Locust trees provide compost and living mulch, creating biomass for elderberries and goji berries. Cancer fighting herbs are also used to attract beneficial insects to help pollinate the berry bushes.

Each and every element in this system have been selected for growing US Growing Zone 6, but the pattern could be mimicked in other regions as well by swapping out certain species. This Cancer Fighting Medicinal & Memorial Garden is designed specifically for climate in Kansas City, MO.

As someone who has battled cancer, I have designed this system using elements that were beneficial me in my fight against cancer. Though natural health remedies have not been approved by the US Food and Drub Administration, there is on-going research taking place across the globe and growing anecdotal evidence regarding the benefits of natural health and food as medicine.

Cancer fighting food and medicinal forest — Cancer Fighting Food and Medicinal Forest (Diagram above is for zone 9a)

Goals of the project

To create a productive food system to benefit those who are currently in their own battle against cancer.
To create a learning garden for students, kids, and families.
To create a Memorial Garden for those of us who have lost loved ones to this horrible disease, and who believe that the cure for cancer may lie beyond the pharmaceutical industry.

In essence, this Cancer Fighting Medical Garden is being planted to inspire hope, remember loved ones, and to provide productive abundance for those battling this sickness.

Elements of the Cancer Fighting Food Forest

Layer 1: Top Story Trees

BLACK WALNUT TREE
Walnuts have multiple cancer fighting benefits, and are the only nut that contain a significant source of alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) (2.5 grams per ounce). Walnuts also contain a variety of antioxidants (3.7 mmol/ounce) and numerous vitamins and minerals. Walnuts have fatty acids are also shown to have cancer fighting benefits.

SIBERIAN PEA
This nitrogen fixing tree help fertilize the soil using nitrogen fixing nodules on the roots. It can also be “chopped and dropped” to provide biomass and much for other elements in the food forest system. The tree provides edible seeds which have 36% protein, which is comparable to soybeans

PLUM TREE
Shown to have cancer fighting benefits including high fiber and polyphenols. They have high levels of anti-oxidants and vitamin C. There is ongoing research specifically for colon and breast cancers. In the food forest, plums are a delicious over-story tree, which also provide pollination for insects.

Layer 2: Small Trees and Shrubs

ELDERBERRY
Flowers and berries have been traditionally used as an immune tonic to help strengthen the natural defense against disease. The berries are also high in vitamin C, which is a known cancer fighter and immune system booster. In the food forest, it’s an excellent pollinator as well as shade producer.

Layer 3: Small Shrubs and Bushes

GOJI BERRIES
High levels of vitamin C, strong antioxidant, and all around superfood. This plant in the food forest has stunning flowers and provides not only food, but also pollination .

CURRANTS
Help create healthy bacteria in the gut as well as having high amounts of anthocyanin, which have an ‘anti-tumour’ effect on some cancers. Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory.

GOOSEBERRY
Contain alma, which is being studied by the European Cancer Institute as a ‘wonder berry’ to combat tumor growth in several types of cancers. High in antioxidants, and as a plant is cold-hardy and disease resistant.

Layer 4: Herbaceous

ECHINACEA PURPUREA
All parts of this plant can be used to make an herbal tea to boost the immune system. It’s an excellent pollinator for beneficial insects and bees, and provides natural beauty and color in the food forest. There are several native bees and caterpillars that use this plant as their host plant, all of which are beneficial in the garden.

OREGANO
Anti-viral, anti-fungal, cancer fighting properties. Helps boost the overall immune response. Provides pollination and ground cover benefits to keep the soil protected. Keeps away garden pests and repels deer and other animals who would eat the tree branches.

ROSEMARY
Rich in carnosol, rosemary has been found to detoxify substances that can initiate the breast cancer process, and it’s a rich source of vitamin E (alpha tocopherol), another powerful antioxidant. Serves as a pollinator and insectary plant.

Layer 5: Ground Covers

ASTRAGALUS
It has immune-stimulating effects and may help to reduce side effects from chemotherapy, and boosts the immune-response of the body. In the food forest, it’s an excellent pollinator, ground cover, and insectary plant.

RED CLOVER
Extracts act as an estrogen agonist and stimulates proliferation of ER-positive breast cancer cells in vitro. It’s also used for skin cancer treatment and as a tea to detoxify the body and boost circulation of the blood. In the medicinal garden it is not only a nitrogen fixing plant, but also a colorful pollinator.

Layer 6: Roots and Mushrooms

TURMERIC
Curcumin, the constituent in turmeric has been shown to inhibit bone cancer cells while promoting growth of healthy bone cells. It also has strong anti-inflammatory properties.

GARLIC
Several compounds are involved in garlics possible anticancer effects. Garlic contains allyl sulfur and other compounds that slow or prevent the growth of tumor cells.

REISHI MUSHROOM
Research in cancer patients has shown that some of the molecules found in the mushroom can increase the activity of a type of white blood cell called natural killer cells. Reishi mushroom can enhance immune function through its effects on white blood cells, which can help fight infection and cancer.

TURKEY TAIL MUSHROOM
The polysaccharopeptide found in turkey tail mushrooms, inhibited the growth and spread of human colon cancer cells. A certain type of polysaccharide found in turkey tail mushrooms called Coriolus versicolor glucan (CVG) may suppress certain tumors, specifically breast cancer cells.

Layer 7: Vines

HARDY KIWI
Kiwi is a little hand grenade of cancer-fighting antioxidants, including vitamin C, vitamin E, lutein, and copper. This cold-hardy vine is a high producer, great pollinator, and does well in a food forests part shade.

PURPLE YAM
Climbing vine and support species that has also been shown to benefit breast and colon cancer patients. Promising research suggests that two anthocyanins in purple yams — cyanidin and peonidin — may reduce the growth of certain types of cancers.

Sample of a Full System

NOTE: The diagram below is actually for a similar guild for Zone 9a/b, but the concept of placement and repetition is similar for a Midwest planting

March 29, 2019March 29, 2019

Ground Covers for Midwest Food Forests

Using Ground Covers to Repair Nitrogen, Pollinate, and Create Beauty

Things to Consider

Succession of plants and species – When you first plant your food forest, you’ll likely have much more sun available because the trees are thinner and there is less canopy creating shade. This gives you the opportunity to plant more sun loving, nitrogen fixing plants, which will help get your food forest off to a great start. For more articles about starting a Midwest Food Forest, click here.
Annual vs perennial benefits – Obviously having a plant come back year-after-year is less work on our end, but at the same time, we shouldn’t overlook the benefit of annual crops to help meet specific functions. Sometimes those functions need to serve a short-term purpose, which is where annuals play a really important roll. For example, does the soil need tilling or aeration? Consider annual root crops like turnips, dandelion, or daikon radishes. Does the soil need biomass? Consider buckwheat or something in the vetch family. Does the area need fast pollination? Consider creeping thyme or a crimson clover.
How the area will fill out over time – Some species may work really well for a few years, but as the over story canopy grows, production increases, or as new plants are introduced small adjustments are often needed to the original species. As the canopy of top story trees thickens, the succession of species around it will need to evolve with it.
Where ground covers are located within the forest – Some ground covers can get tall and lush, but also serve as a chop and drop mulch. Comfrey (the bocking 14 variety) is great for this, because it creates substantial biomass, but will still still stay localized. It works great at the base of young fruit trees and provides needed pollination. There is some debate as to what it provides for the soil, but at the very least it is proven to increases minerals in the top soil region and provide shade for the tree roots that it’s planted by. At the same time, other ground covers need more sun, so will do better away from the base of the trees. For example, planting clover varieties in the alleys between orchard rows will help keep grass at bay, prevent the need for frequent mowing, and provide pollination sources. For more on selecting a location in your food forest or permaculture orchard, click here.

Depending on your region, there are a plethora of options to choose from when it comes to ground covers for a food forest or permaculture orchard. Before spreading seeds, it’s important to research and study your site thoroughly, because some ground covers can be harder to get rid of once established. It’s also important to pay attention to the sun and moisture requirements these species need to really help your ground cover be a show stopper. Lastly, be sure to research the ground cover you have selected so you prepare the soil correctly before seeing. Doing research beforehand will save time and money in the long run.

However, to get you started, here are a few suggestions for those of you who live in the Midwestern USA.

Wild Ginger
White Dutch Clover
Tokinashi Turnip
Sweet Woodruff
Crimson Clover
Hairy Vetch
Ladino Clover
Red Clover
Creeping Thyme
Cowpea
Buckwheat
Comfrey – Bocking 14

Ground Cover Comparisons

Species	Annual vs Perennial	Height & Description	Benefits	Drawbacks
Dutch White Clover	Hardy perennial	3-6”, but can be easily mowed.	Nitrogen fixer, soil builder, dense foliage to cover soil. Great for sunny areas in food forest and for alleys between rows. Can also be used as a forage for animals and poultry.	Can spread easily to other areas if allowed to flower and go to seed. Should not be planted next to other plants it’s name height, because it can choke them out.
Ladino Clover	Perennial (4-5 year max)	4-8”	Nitrogen fixer, soil builder, dense foliage to cover soil. Great for sunny areas in food forest and for alleys between rows. Can be used as a forage for animals and poultry. Does better rebounding after animal pasturing and often more economic.	Spreads easily. Attracts deer more than other clover varieties.
Red Clover	1-2 year perennial	6-8”	Highest nitrogen fixing among the clovers, great for bees and honey flavor, excellent for adapting to a wide variety of soil types. Easily tilled under.	Short lived, does not do well in shady areas.
Crimson Clover	Annual	5-8”	Stunning flower display, similar nitrogen fixing to other clovers. Excellent source of nectar for bees and butterflies. Great for areas that need a temporary ground cover.	Short lived, attracts a full spectrum of insects (some good and some bad), including moths in southern regions.
Hairy Vetch	Tender perennial	Up to 3’	Very high nitrogen fixing ability and an excellent pollinator. Great for larger areas that do not have bushes or understory, fields, etc. Best used in larger fields, livestock areas, and places that are not farmed multiple times per year. Great for soil stabilizing along water areas.	Hard to get rid of, because the vines can grow to 12’ long and get wrapped around smaller farm equipment. It’s best to till them under in April, before they are too invasive, and will likely need additional turning to terminate them (in a commercial or large scale setting).
Cow pea	Annual	2’ tall areas, but vines can be 12’ long.	Excellent at fixing nitrogen, but also gives an edible crop for dried beans. Easy to harvest, dry, and remove at the end of season. They are a great no-till cover crop that can be “mowed over” at the end of the season.	Not a great pollinator. Can climb up nearby trees and bushes if allowed. However, this is easy managed and pruned back.
Buckwheet	Annual (self sowing)	30-50”	Pollinator, usable seed for ancient grain, excellent bio mass producer. Great at choking out unwanted species. Some animals will use it for forage.	Thick, harder to harvest the seed without equipment. Will resow itself if you let it go to seed before chopping and dropping.
Tokinashi Turnip	Annual	12”	Greens are edible when cooked and roots are a pleasant food source (raw or cooked). Greens are excellent for animal and poultry forage. Excellent understory crop that can tolerate dappled shade.	Needs sunlight and space to grow if you are harvesting the roots. If you are harvesting greens, they are very easy to grow, even in lightly shaded areas.
Comfrey (Bocking 14)	Perennial (4-5 year max)	12-18”	Very resilliant, pollinator, medicinal usage for humans (bone and muscle healing), roots for tea and tonic. Biomass and mineral accumulation, chop and drop mulch, excellent forage for animals.	Hard to get rid of once established. Do not use anything other than bocking 14 or it will spread at a near uncontrolable rate.
Creeping Thyme	Perennial (4-5 year max)	3”	Herbal use, excellent pollinator, hardy once established, and great for areas that need lower growth. Needs sun to flourish. Can be walked on and moderate tolerate foot traffic.	Needs sunlight to do well and get established. It can be harder to get established in mass plantings, but once it has take root, it never needs to be mowed and covers the ground well.
Sweet Woodruff	Perennial	3-5”	Flowers can be used as a tea or added to white wine, pollinator, shade loving.	Spreads once established.
Wild Ginger	Perennial	4-5”	Shade loving, wild edible, small flowers under leaves.	Does well for smaller areas, but not ideal for large scale.

March 5, 2019March 12, 2019

How to Select a Location for a Food Forest

Knowing how to select the location for a food forest or perennial garden is possibly just as important as knowing what to plant. Before you start digging, take time to examine your site. Study. Watch. Learn from the environment around you. Take notes on some of the topics below to help you decide which location will be most suitable for your new food forest or perennial garden.

Sun and soil requirements: What pH will be needed for those plants? How much organic matter exists on site already? Does the site meet the sun requirements for the species selected?
Identify precursor species: Knowing what plants are already thriving will tell you about the site, soil, and environment. For example, if there are a lot of dandelions or tap root plants, the soil is trying to rebuild minerals and nutrients. If there are signs of plants with shallow, hair-hair-like roots, the soil may be trying to stabilize itself from erosion or drying out. Do you see acid or alkaline loving plants growing native?
Space to grow and fill out: Do the plants have room to thrive and have airflow at their mature size? Do you have room to move among the plants or rows? Do you need extra or protected space to make allowance for animals or livestock?
Ease of watering: Is there water access? The first 30 days are often the most important as the plants establish, so you will want to have easy water access points.
Ease of maintenance: Is the area something that you frequently visit or drive by? Is this area one that can be easily maintained or get tools and equipment to as needed? Will you need truck or tractor access?
What is the long-term use for this area? Consider mapping out 3-5-10+ years. Is your current use of the space preparing the site adequately for those goals?
Ease of Harvesting: Will you or others be able to quickly and successfully harvest? Are there rows or adequate spacing between key areas? Are 90% of the crops within arms reach? Will you see and be able to easily use the crops you have planted when the harvest time arrives?